Many surfers today talk about their love for the sport and the surfing lifestyle. The positive image of surfing is enhanced by the way surf brands market themselves and by what is seen on social media.
However, what is not talked about as much are the hardships and struggles that come with surfing, and the times when surfers do not want to go into the water at all. Like any other element of our life, things are not only black or white.
The sooner you realize this, the better your experience with surfing can be.
Some people may think that surfers are addicted to their passion because they are always talking about how much they love it and how they could never stop surfing.
While it is true that surfers are very passionate about their sport, there are other reasons why they may seem addicted. Many surfers recognize that they are addicted to surfing, but they don’t think about the reasons why or the consequences of their addiction.
The average surfer just wants to have a good time, but this mindset is only effective for beginners.
Without understanding all the aspects of surfing, regularly going for it can lead to frustration both in the water and on the beach.
Recognizing the addictive, love-hate relationship we have with surfing will help us better enjoy the ocean.
What We Love About Surfing
- It is a fantastic outdoor activity
People love outdoor activities because they offer a chance to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life and into nature.
These activities also require some level of physical effort, which can be very rewarding for people who live in sedentary lifestyles.
- You get an incredible amount of energy from the sun & waves
There are few other things as powerful as sunshine, the ocean, and the wind. And we get to play in them, which makes the benefits even better.
- You’ll completely forget about daily life and troubles
Focusing is easy when you’re riding a wave because there’s nothing to distract you. It’s like an active form of meditation.
- The waves are never the same
Even if you have a surf guide and forecast, you can’t predict what the waves will look like when you get to the beach.
And each wave is slightly different. That’s what makes surfing so interesting: it’s never boring.
- It feels like it’s a common quest you’re working on with other surfers
You usually ride waves alone, but you need to cooperate with other people on land or in the lineup to catch the perfect wave.
- The harder it is, the better the feeling
Reaching a difficult goal gives us great happiness, and surfing may be one of the most challenging things created purely for the fun that we can attempt to learn.
Even a brief 1-2 second wave makes us more content than playing football for 90 minutes or watching an entire movie.
- Makes you humble and shapes your ego
It takes a lot of patience and practice to become good at surfing. You learn from your failures and keep trying. Even when you become good at surfing, the ocean can be dangerous and you need to stay humble.
- We get to explore the world
Surfing is constantly evolving as people search for better waves. This drives exploration to different places that have unique environments, histories, and cultures.
These unique factors can enhance someone’s personality and understanding of the world.
Why It Is So Addictive?
- The perfect wave is yet to be ridden
We believe that there are still perfect waves out there waiting to be found and we can’t help but search for them. When we catch a glimpse of perfection, we know that there are ways to make it even better – like bigger waves, less people, or more time in the barrel.
- There are always good waves somewhere
With the internet, social media and other technologies, we’ve learned that every second spent out of the water, we’re missing some really good waves. It’s hard not to strive to get on a plane and surf the next perfect swell that everyone is hyping about on another side of the planet.
- I can do better on the next one
Most surfers immediately know what they could’ve done better once they jump off a wave, even if it feels good. Later, you may learn a new skill or get a better board and you want to surf the same waves with improved performance.
- You need more of that energy
After you return from being in the sun and sea, your body and mind will long for the natural high they experienced.
- Anything else is boring
The science behind activities with high levels of dopamine and adrenaline is harsh. If you surf often, you may begin to find that life outside of the ocean is dull because you can’t get such a high from other activities.
This can even be dangerous, and it takes a certain level of awareness to overcome that.
- Real-life is much tougher
It’s often easier to accomplish goals without outside pressure or influence. In the water, you are the only one who can determine your success, but in life, there are many factors that can affect your ability to succeed.
Thinking about escaping back to the simplicity of the sea can be appealing when life gets complicated.
- There’s so much inspiration around
Surfing has become a popular lifestyle among many people around the world. The surf-related industries have strong marketing that can be seen everywhere.
There is an endless amount of pro surfing videos and vlogs from traveling surfers that make people want to do the same. All you need to do to live this carefree lifestyle is to win the lottery and quit your job.
- It’s a natural therapy
When people are troubled, they go to a psychologist, just like when surfers go to the ocean. The ocean clears your thoughts and soul, which is beneficial for your well-being.
Your mind knows this, and every time you encounter some issues, you’d rather be surfing.
Signs That You Are Addicted to Surfing
You would rather be doing something else then go to your friends wedding.
Your surfing obsession causes you to neglect your friends and family. You would rather go on dawn patrol sessions than go out for drinks in the evening.
You feel like you’re going crazy if you haven’t surfed for over 48 hours, which the media often labels as an addiction. Research suggests that extreme sports athletes even show withdrawal symptoms during abstinence.
You love surfing more than any other exercise, and the thought of doing other workouts bores you. Even the prospect of working out indoors makes you unhappy.
You promise yourself you’ll only go out for a short time, two hours at most, but you end up leaving the beach when it’s already pitch black outside.
When you’re not surfing, you’re thinking about surfing. You check the weather conditions and tide charts obsessively when the weather is bad, feeling like Mother Nature is against you.
You’re always looking for ways to increase the intensity of the thrill you feel. This means you’re willing to take greater risks in order to achieve the high you’re chasing.
It’s All About Chemistry
No matter what your skill level is at surfing, whether you’re an experienced surfer or still a beginner, you can’t deny that it’s a thrilling experience. It’s not just the danger that gets you hooked though, there are other factors that contribute to the natural high you get from surfing.
These include the setting, the anticipation, and the rewards, which all lead to a rush of feel-good chemicals in your brain, like endorphins, dopamine, and serotonin.
Endorphins are neurochemicals that are responsible for feelings and emotions, They trigger a euphoric response when exercising, eating, having sex, or upon receiving an unexpected reward, such as being able to stand up on the surfboard for the first time.
Natural painkillers like endorphins can help you stay focused, feel less pain, and improve your mood.
Endorphins work in a similar way to prescription anti-anxiety drugs and painkillers, but they’re natural and have no risks or side effects.
Dopamine is more powerful than endorphins and is often associated with addiction. This neurotransmitter causes the brain to experience joy and happiness by controlling its reward and pleasure centers.
It makes us enjoy the moment but also keeps us coming back for more.
Surfing Comes With Its Rewards
The anticipation of the perfect water conditions builds throughout the week making you so excited that as soon as you park your car, you jump out and run towards the ocean.
The drive to the beach often feels like an eternity, but the anticipation releases dopamine as the brain already knows there is some kind of reward in store.
Some experiences stimulate the part of the brain that is responsible for giving us pleasure, making it very easy to become addicted to them.
Whenever we do something that we enjoy or that we’re good at, dopamine is released into our brains, making us feel happy. This happens when we surf, too.
When a beginner surfer is able to keep balance on the board for the first time, they get a shot of dopamine because they didn’t think they’d be able to do it.
This is an unexpected success that’s rewarded by the brain, making the beginner surfer want to try again and progress to higher and faster waves.
Fulfillment of Our Core Human Needs
According to Anthony Robbins, all human behavior is driven by six basic needs: certainty, significance, variety, love, growth, and contribution. When you can find an activity that ticks off at least three of these needs, then you have a recipe for addiction.
And when it comes to surfing, all of these needs can be fulfilled.
Certainty
The feeling of certainty and comfort when surfing comes from the fact that you are in complete control of your board. You are aware of your abilities and what you are capable of, and are thus responsible for your own decisions – when to try and catch the next wave, and when to bail out.
You also know how to avoid pain, and can choose to be comfortable.
Variety
In order to progress as a surfer, you need to learn to manage uncertainty and to not be afraid of it. Certainty and uncertainty go together, and you need to find a balance between the two.
Variety, or uncertainty, is easy to find at any given moment when you’re surfing. There will always be new challenges, surprises, and novelty, because no two waves are alike.
Each wave feels different and has its own story. In order to progress as a surfer, you need to learn to manage uncertainty and not be afraid of it.
Significance
Having a purpose or feeling like you are a part of something bigger than yourself is an essential human need. Learning to surf and catching waves can give you that sense of purpose and pride.
Love
We all crave love and connection. Surfing lets you connect with other passionate surfers and with nature. You feel connected to your surfboard and the elements around you.
Growth
You never know what may happen in an ever-changing environment like the ocean. An unexpected success comes with extra high amounts of dopamine being released, and you will not only experience intense pleasure but also want more.
Surfers are always looking to improve, both their surfing and themselves.
Contribution
Life does not revolve around you, there is a much greater significance beyond what you see. Surfing for example allows you to help make the world a better place, whether it’s through joining an environmental protection group, raising money for a cause, or teaching beginners the ropes.
You are a part of something much larger than just yourself.
Meditation
When you’re out on the waves, all that matters is the here and now. If you have ever tried to meditate but found it difficult to control your thoughts and stop your mind from wandering, you’ll have no excuse when riding waves.
You need a clear mind to be able to keep your balance on the board and make it back to shore in one piece. Worrying about financial stability, kids, work, your love life, etc. is not important when you’re out on the waves.
All that matters is the present moment.
If the weight of the world is stressing you out, go surfing! It’s a great way to forget your troubles and just be in the moment. You’ll enter a meditative state and feel more alive than ever.
Are you looking for a way to feel more present and at peace? Try surfing! When you’re inside a barrel about to be closed in on by a wave, you have to be fully present in that moment.
If you’re too slow, the wave will close in on you, and if you’re too fast, it will all be over before you know it. Surfing is all about catching the perfect moment.
Surfing is all about enjoying the moment and being in the present. The wave that you ride has traveled a long way and has a lot of energy. You should enjoy the ride and not think about the past or the future.
