The fitness benefits of surfing are obvious—you get cardio and muscle/movement development from the moment you enter the water. By placing the activity out in the ocean, often early in the morning, in cold salt water, the vitality factor measures off the charts.
This activity is not only extremely calming, but also causes the release of inner dolphins, also known as endorphins, and serotonin. These chemicals work together to increase blood flow and oxygen circulation throughout the body, providing a feeling of peace and exhilaration.
I found this story interesting because I had never considered surfing to be a form of Qigong. The master in the story told me that because I surf, I likely don’t need to learn Qigong as surfing is a very powerful form of Qigong.
He said this is because when you surf, you are surrounded by Qi (life-force) and the act of moving with this energy is a pure expression of the principles of Qigong.
When you surf, you are connecting with the waves in a deep and meaningful way. You are one with the water and the elements, and you are part of a larger whole.
And we surfers get to ride these waves of energy that began as disturbances in the cosmos. We become one with these waves, and for a few moments, we are one with the cosmos.” The speaker’s surfboard shaper describes one of the reasons why he believes that surfing is special as the ability to ride waves of energy that began as disturbances in the cosmos.
A cosmic event of huge proportions.
Anyone who surfs will confess that there is something otherworldly about being in the center of a breaking wave as it hits the shoreline. No matter the size or shape of the board or the surfer, the experience is incomparable to anything else. In those moments, you forget any fatigue or pain you might have been feeling.
You are one with the wave and completely alive. If you weren’t, you wouldn’t be able to surf.
Surfing Fulfills Our Human Needs
According to Human Needs Psychology, our behavior is driven by six core emotional needs. The needs are progressive, starting with the basic need for certainty, variety, significance, love, growth, and ultimately contribution.
Interestingly, when someone has an activity in their life that stimulates and satisfies three or more of the basic human needs, the activity is marked as a prime target for addiction. Addictions can manifest themselves positively or negatively.
For example, in the case of surfing (which satisfies pretty much all six Human Needs), I have seen both. One of the great expressions of surfing addiction is the growing wave of surfers around the world who have translated their love of the ocean into foundations and real-world action that is devoted to protecting and preserving the life within it.
Surfers for Cetaceans, co-founded by professional free surfer Dave Rastovich, is an organization that encourages the surfing community to care for the ocean and its creatures.
Their initiatives have inspired people all over the world to be more conscientious of the environment.
Finding Flow in Water Helps Finding Flow in Life
I grew up skiing and snowboarding in the snowy mountains of Colorado, so I thought I would pick up surfing easily. But I was wrong. I had the most difficulty learning how to surf out of any sport I’ve attempted.
I assumed I could just use the skills I learned from other sports, but I was quickly proven wrong. I had to step back and start from scratch, humble myself, and allow the ocean to teach me its rhythms.
It’s great that every time we ride a wave, we also gain a reference point for what that feels like in life. I find that often when I’m getting ready for a workshop, presentation, or important business meeting, I’ll sit and imagine myself surfing instead of thinking about the event itself.
That’s partly because I love surfing, but I’ve also come to realize that as I take time to think about the connection, energy, and flow of surfing, I start to feel those things in my body and they carry me into similar experiences in life.
This means that even if we’re not physically surfing on a board in the ocean, we can still be ‘surfing’ through life in general. Is this a good thing? I believe so.
Why Is Surfing Popular?
Surfing’s popularity has increased dramatically in recent years, especially in its ancestral home of Hawaii, as well as in California and Australia. Although it has been around for centuries, it only began to gain global popularity in the late 1950s and early 1960s.
Since then, it has gone through a few boom and bust cycles, but is now experiencing unprecedented growth.
From Hawaii to Bali, Portugal to Russia, South Africa, Brazil, California, and Morocco, surf culture has dedicated followers, from professionals to casual admirers.
- It feels like walking on water.
What other sport allows you to glide across the water without any additional tools except the board under your feet? Surfers can feel like they are flying, skating, swimming, and walking on water all in one good session.
- Surfing is addicting.
The term ‘perfect wave’ is often used by surfers to describe the ideal wave that they are forever searching for. Although this wave may always be just out of reach, the journey towards it is enjoyable.
- It looks cool.
This text is saying that if you like watching surfing, then you are a great fan of the art. It does not matter if you do not surf yourself, anyone can appreciate how awesome it looks.
- Surfing gives you a great reason to travel the world
You can find active surf cultures all along coastlines where there are decent waves. This is especially true now more than ever before. You can pick a coast, grab a surfboard, and follow your dreams!
- It provides an adrenaline kick
Surfing gets you active and releases endorphins, but catching a great wave also gives you an adrenaline rush.
- It feels awesome to be out in nature, especially on the ocean
There is something about being out in nature that can be healing, and this is especially true when you are out on the ocean. If you are feeling depressed, go hit the waves!
- Surfing is challenging.
Surfing is not easy. Even though almost anyone can start surfing in easy waves with some instruction, after a few surfing lessons, you will be ready for your next challenge–and they keep coming!
- It makes you feel alive
Being out on the waves is an amazing feeling that makes you feel one with nature. Surfing is a great workout and is also very good for your health. It also helps you to appreciate life more and to be more grateful for the world we live in.
- Surfing is an excellent exercise
If you’re looking for a fun way to get in shape, exchange your Sedentary Lifestyle for an active one by learning to surf! It’s an excellent workout for all the major muscle groups, and way more fun than going to the gym.
- Surfing takes you to some of the most beautiful places in the world
Are you looking for a nature sport that is both fun and social, with great weather and scenic views? If so, you should try surfing in a beautiful tropical location.
- You can surf in the best weather
Though surfing can be done in many places, it is best in warm weather like that found in the Polynesian islands.
- Surfing provides adventure
Surfing provides opportunities for adventure, such as the thrill of catching a wave, traveling the world, and finding “secret” surf spots.
- People think surfers are attractive
Although it may seem shallow, there are actually many reasons why people find surfers attractive. Surfing is a healthy activity that helps improve physical fitness and demonstrates skill and coordination. Additionally, surfing has a cool factor that can make someone more attractive.
- It’s an environmentally friendly sport
Surfers care about oceans because they enjoy surfing in them. If the oceans are polluted, it would ruin the experience. Surfing also gives people an appreciation for the natural world. All that is needed for surfing is a surfboard. If someone gets a surfboard made from sustainable materials, they are being environmentally friendly.
- Big wave surfing
While not many people can do it, big wave surfing has had a big effect. The dangerous stunts that people like Garrett McNamara do often get surfing news coverage from mainstream sources.
- The surfer community
Being a member of a group can make people feel powerful and connected to others who share the same interests. For example, surfers often have a strong sense of community because they share a common love for the sport and lifestyle. This can help to build bridges between different cultures, classes, nationalities, and walks of life.
- Surf culture is cool
Surfing’s popularity isn’t just because of the sport itself, but also because of the culture that surrounds it. The clothes, music, and slang associated with surfing have spread around the world and are popular with both surfers and non-surfers.
- Famous people who surf
Celebrities have been hugely instrumental in surf culture becoming mainstream. Agatha Christie, Anthony Kiedis of the Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Barack Obama and Prince William have all helped make surfing more popular.
- Surfing is daring
Surfing offers a rush of adrenaline not found in many other sports if you are willing to take on the challenge. Surfing through a well-formed wave is an exhilarating experience.
- You get to experience nature — firsthand!
In addition to the beach, the sea, the sun, and the sand, surfers sometimes interact with amazing animals including dolphins, sea lions, and even whales!
- Kelly Slater
Although he is not surfing competitively anymore, he is still considered one of the best surfers ever. He was both the youngest and oldest person to become a champion. His mix of skills, athleticism, charm, and good looks makes him the perfect surfing personality to help the sport grow.
He has also acted in several films and television shows (including a recurring role on Baywatch) as well as produced surf documentaries.
